The Petzl Grigri is the original active assisted braking device. Nowadays, these types of belay device are called Assisted Braking Devices, or ABDs. No device will belay automatically, but units such as the Petzl Grigri, which use a mechanical camming action to clamp the rope, come closer than any, so, right or wrong, they got stuck with that tag years ago. The CAMP – Cassin Piu 2 is another example of a guide-mode tubular belay device. Replace it as necessary-they are inexpensive, after all. A worn ATC can in turn badly wear your rope. These devices tend to wear thin and become sharp where the rope brakes over them on the outside edges. If you use an ATC-style device, watch for wear. The orientation of the device in guide mode creates an auto-block effect when the follower falls. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above.Ī slightly fancier version of the tubular belay device has an extra loop of metal on the back, which allows it to function in “guide mode.” This enables you to belay a second from above with a greater degree of security. For sheer versatility, whether you are alpine or ice climbing, heading up El Cap, sport or trad climbing or even TR-ing in the gym, ATC devices are impossible to beat. Configurations abound, some have a V-notch to cinch better on smaller ropes, while others have cooling fins. Of all devices, the ATC is the most popular and common. ATC style devices are also super light, usually around three ounces, and compact, about the size of an apricot. In any use, it effectively clamps on the rope, giving you good control whether rappelling or belaying. A large surface area keeps the device relatively cool, although it can get scorching hot during multiple long rappels. The ATC-style device works well because the rope feeds straight in and straight out, so it twists the rope only minimally and feeds smoothly, although function depends to a large degree on the rope diameter, stiffness and coating. Most other climbing companies that manufacture belay devices have a similar product. The Black Diamond ATC-a tubular style belay device-is classic and still a great piece of gear. Now nearly every company has a tubular belay device of some design. Basically a formed tube of aluminum with rope slots and a cable loop to keep you from dropping the thing, the ATC was so simple and worked so well that its name, like that of Xerox, soon became synonymous for this style of device. The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or “ATC,” was the first of a genre of devices that were lighter and more compact than the old Sticht plate. Today, while the basic devices are about the same, coming in various shapes, weights and complexities, there is also newer assisted braking technology that is a game changer. Both devices worked fundamentally the same way by crimping the rope and locking it off when it was weighted. You either punched a bight of rope through the small hole of a Figure-8 device, or put it through a hole milled into a flat plate of aluminum called a Sticht plate. Just not purple, because that's my color and I don't want them to get mixed up.Back in “the day,” whenever that was, you had two choices for a belay device. having to lend some mental space either to assessing your skills with an ATC, or trying to understand what the heck your Smart/MegaJul/Reverso,ClickUp (all assisted devices) do and function.įor multi-pitching, again, if you end up with a tangled rope or whatnot, you can very easily backup the grigri with a knot to a locker while you sort out the mess, without having to deal with managing the tension of the rope being pulled into the device. Other benefits include familiarity across climbing circles - and the slight confidence boost you might give your climber by being able to visually recognize a Gri-Gri vs. I know none of us would think we would ever drop a rope, but what if it was a 200 pound rock? The GriGri is worth its weight in gold in those situations.
The GriGri held the climber until he got his brake hand back on. One of our friend IIRC got kicked in the face by a falling lead climber, and dropped his hand from the rope. I really recommend the GriGri! It's the standard among my climbing group - mostly because it protects against worst case scenarios. Then recently switched back to a Gri-Gri+ in the last ~6 months. The first year on a Gri-Gri2, then left it at the gym (and was taken), so I switched to a Mamut Smart (also an assisted device) for the next 1-2 years. I've been lead climbing indoors and outdoors for the past 4-5 years now, and have been getting experience in trad climbing for the last year. Congrats on the fast progression! Fun times ahead.
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